Well you only turn thirty years old once in your life, and I always knew I’d have to do it up right. And well, not to toot my own horn, but I did it right! Somehow the four of us managed to skip town for five days and go on an absolutely phenomenal road trip in Southern Utah, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks. No I did not get birthday cake, or really even a party. But man! I got so many things that were much better. Now the problem is how to put it in big enough words!
I will start at the beginning. I planned this entire trip myself, to an area we all have wanted to see for a long time. Kevin had to take most of this vacation unpaid, but he’s always up for some sacrifice if an adventure is included. Kevin and I (and by extension, our kids) do not take relaxing vacations. We take trips to go, do, and experience. We know that wherever we go, we most likely won’t be revisiting anytime soon (or at all), and therefore I make a flexible itinerary, doing all my research ahead of time, and we utilize every second of our so-called, “vacation” to do just that. I say flexible itinerary because, in reality, traveling with kids demands flexibility (sometimes more than a little)! Kevin worked on Monday and Tuesday while I prepped the house, car, and packing. We left Boise at approximately 9:00 pm that evening and drove all night, arriving in Moab, UT at 6:00 am. This might have been crazy, yes, but also necessary! We have learned through all our national park travels in years past that in order to secure a campsite in popular areas with no reservation (because, of course, we don’t plan anything with enough advance notice to make reservations, but rather move freely about), if you don’t claim a spot incredibly early, they will be all gone! We have also learned from experience that there is nothing more stressful than driving 8-14 hours in one day (we’ve been there) with kids only to find that you have nowhere to sleep! As we pulled in to a BLM campground on the Colorado River, an older gentleman was drinking coffee, asked if we were looking for a spot, and he was leaving a just a bit if we wanted to claim his. So we pulled our car in, took a walk for a little while, and there we were. A perfect spot on the Colorado River, surrounded by some seriously jaw dropping sandstone cliffs for miles. Right across the river were the rocks of Arches National Park, with the gate being only a five minute drive away. Boo-yah.
^^^THIS WAS OUR VIEW!!!^^^
That first day Kevin and I were definitely tired. Driving overnight was harder than either of us had remembered. In one sense, it makes a lot of sense because we don’t have to stop every hour for snacks, bathroom breaks, or any wiggling that needs to be done with the kids. On the other hand, I don’t think we’ll ever do it again, it’s so exhausting, and obviously not a good idea to drive while drowsy, despite our attempts to prevent that with copious amounts of caffeine and 5-hour energy drinks. I think the kids were tired as well though, because they had slept in car seats all night! Does anyone sleep well in those things?
The first thing we did after setting up camp and cooking breakfast was go to the local dinosaur museum, “Moab Giants”. I had heard great things about this place, but man, it was so LAME! I tried not to voice my displeasure too vocally because obviously both kids loved it, but Rylan somehow knows my stance on the subject. Admission was ridiculously expensive and also ridiculously a waste of money. We paid the minimum amount just to go walk through the outdoor section of model dinosaurs. The model dinosaurs were sub-par. For one, many of them were flat out incorrect, were all labeled in a very confusing way, AND it looked like they had used only one mold for all the dinosaurs, which looked ridiculous. For example, the Iguanodon species was all the exact same pose, all facing the exact same way, all lined up next to each other, only painted differently! The Diplodocus had spikes on his back for some reason, and the Velociraptor they portrayed was only two feet tall! On top of that, the Allosaurus had spikes on his head, which is clearly a Carnataurus trait! I know I sound like a total dinosaur nerd, but honestly! If you go to all the trouble to create a dinosaur museum, you might as well do it correctly! Don’t go thinking that every 5 year old there (or 30 year old for that matter) doesn’t know any better! I see I have gotten on a rant, so I will force myself to move on. Clearly stupid dinosaur museums really make me unreasonably angry. And that doesn’t even include that we had to pay MORE to get into the interesting paleolithic aquarium to see a mosasaurus and the actual fossil museum! We didn’t. Anyway, my heart rate is really rising so I will switch gears here…
^^^LOOK at these dumb Iguanodons! Really? You can’t even face them in different directions to make it look like you’re at least trying?!^^^
Ugh. Anyways…
After a very hot walk around that place, we drove into Moab, UT to see the sights. On the way there both kids fell asleep in the car, which was fine by Kevin and I! In fact, we just pulled into a shady parking spot off the main downtown strip and all four of us took a nap! This became our routine for the most part every afternoon during the hottest part of the day. It was actually really nice and we all seemed to look forward to it. In the evening we finally drove into Arches National Park and got Rylan his Junior Ranger work book to have for the next few days, and drove a few miles on the scenic drive through the park. We found out very quickly that Arches is family-friendly place, with the scenic drive taking you most of the way to many of the most awesome arches! This means you can pull up and park, walk on a well designated path for a few hundred yards, and BAM, you’re there, right under a monstrous natural sandstone arch that is millions of years old! It truly is an experience I will not soon forget.
I so wish that pictures could convey the full experience of actually being there. I know all the arches look big and grand from pictures, but they look bigger and grander and more beautiful in person, and they make you feel smaller and humbled standing inside them. In that way, these arches truly are the “doors of time” that the native “Utes” believed about them.
We stepped inside Double Arch as our first experience, and saw the Windows from the trail head.
We climbed right up inside. Look at those tiny people in there! It was SO BIG! It was this first hike that we were able to assess the kids abilities and inclinations and then set some serious ground rules for future hikes. For example, after this hike, due to Quinny constantly arguing about what she was physically capable of, she got to ride in the backpack for almost every other hike – no questions asked. That prevented a lot of future arguing about her hiking abilities! With Rylan, he had to agree to unquestionably hold our hands when needed, even if he didn’t feel it necessary. This proved to be important on more dangerous hikes we went on later, so I’m glad we established that rule early on.
We also stopped by Park Avenue, but we were tired and it was getting dark, so we didn’t go too far down into the canyon where I think it would have been truly spectacular. As it was…still an awesome sight!
On Thursday, our second full day, we went straight into Arches. We didn’t get into the park until about 10:30, which we assumed would be the most popular time to get into the park and were anticipating large crowds. But, despite about a half hour in line to get our car through the gate, the park was relatively empty! We had our pick of parking spots, scenic viewpoints, and pullouts – it was fantastic! We stopped and hiked the Delicate Arch Viewpoints, upper and lower. You cannot get to the arch itself from this way, but we wanted to at least see it, still being unsure if we would complete the full hike itself later. We stopped at Panorama Point, the Salt Flats, which are exactly as their names might describe. We stopped at the Fiery Furnace Overlook, where Rylan was extremely disappointed we couldn’t hike into. That is a permit only or guided ranger hiking area only, and everyone who goes in has to be at least 5 years old. Rylan suggested that we just leave Quinny behind, but we didn’t really encourage that idea. As it was, he had to be content with just looking at it.
We also hiked into a sandstone slot canyon for a short hike to Sand Dune Arch, which, is exactly as you may picture it as well, an arch over a sand dune. Unfortunately we arrived right around the time a first grade field trip was happening, so it was very loud and busy when we were there. It further strengthened my opinion of why I hate sand dunes after a slight wind blew sand in my eyes. And have you ever tried to explain to a three year old how to get sand out of her eyes? I have! There’s no explanation that can make it better, believe me! But despite all that, the hike itself was really cool, but maybe that’s just because I really love a good slot canyon! It was this hike that Rylan spotted a pretty good sized snake, that Kevin and I (and several other people) had tromped right on by due to it’s camouflage! That was exciting and kind of gross!
We also continued hiking another mile to the neighboring Broken Arch. It’s not really broken, but it does have a good sized notch taken out of it. Almost all the arches you can walk right into, but some are more breathtaking than others, and this was one of them. It’s a really big one that just towers over you, blocking the sun and making you feel like a little baby walking in such an ancient giant. This one was too slick and steep for Kevin and Quinn to go up safely, but Rylan, who is amazingly sure footed and a good hiker, went into the arch plus explored a little further on the other side.
This kid loves hiking. He was always asking when and where the next one we were doing was, and always up for more, even after completing more strenuous ones. Even on those where he might have been struggling, he was very intrinsically motivated to keep going to see those “incredible views” and he was very proud of himself just for “persevering”. I was really proud of him!
After Broken Arch it was getting a little hot and the kids were getting tired, so we drove in Moab again and napped in the car downtown. After we all woke up we perused the downtown tourist shops, bought an iced coffee and and ice cream bar before heading back to camp for dinner and bedtime.
Camping is fun with the kids for several reasons, but also makes Kevin and I a little crazy. This is where their personalities can make it great or…not. Rylan has really been reading a lot, and the books he chose to take were a couple of the Calvin and Hobbes comic books. The only difference is that for some reason he reads it as Calvin and Hobbles, which I find very entertaining. You bet that’s what we all call it now! We bought one book at a thrift store here in Boise for 69 cents, and two others he borrowed from my parents, and he flew through them. So he spent a lot of time quietly reading in his camp chair, working on his Junior Ranger work book, or playing/bugging Quinn. Quinn, on the other hand, had her baby doll, which took up a lot of her time “mothering” that thing. She also spent more than her fair share of time singing, and playing with/bugging Rylan. She also had to overcome her – fairly understandable – fear of using a pit toilet. That was challenging for the first day or so!
Friday was my big BIRTHDAY! And, you are so lucky, I will share with you my glamorous first moments being old:
Yes, I know. I am in my prime, what can I say? Maybe I could have blamed this horrible picture on the fact that my coffee was not made yet, but do you know what we forgot on this trip? I will tell you that we will never forget such a minuscule object ever again: MUGS. MUGS!!! What else can you drink coffee in, I ask you? I scoured our camp supplies, and we only had thin plastic drinking cups. I will tell you that coffee has never tasted so good as it did when we got back.
Anyway, back to my coffee-less birthday. We decided to wake up early-ish and take on the difficult hike to the famous Delicate Arch. We were warned that it was difficult, mostly on slick rock, with a narrow rock ledge the last several hundred yards or so, but Kevin and I both felt like we had to at least try.
We got a good start and headed up the trail with a busy, but not yet crowded, line of other people – including another family with young kids, so we felt slightly more confident. The Slick Rock proved to be no problem, but did provide some amazing viewpoints all around us while we hiked! We felt free to stop in the shade of the cliffs for snacks. Rylan had on his Camelback hydration backpack, and he had read in the ranger packet how important it is to drink at least one gallon of water per day, especially when hiking, so he was very aware (and vocal) of how he needed to stay hydrated, even when he didn’t feel thirsty. The whole trail itself was actually not that hard, and even the narrow rock ledge at the end was still about the width of a sidewalk, and I felt like I could trust Rylan to have enough sense not to walk off a sidewalk, so I wasn’t too paranoid about holding his hand until the very end! When we came around the trail’s end and saw the Delicate Arch for the first time…wow. It really is awesome. It’s famous for a reason! And the closer you get to it, the bigger it gets. I know that seems like common sense but let me rephrase, the closer you get to it, it turns into a freaking GIANT.
I mean, seriously. Rylan is standing right underneath Delicate Arch in this picture. I can barely see the little guy!
I wasn’t planning on going all the way over to this arch, considering the slick rock terrain and sheer cliff if you lose your footing, but Rylan was absolutely begging to go touch it and you know what? It was my birthday! So we went together and touched history while I believe Kevin had quite the time wrangling Quinn and arguing about whether or not she was a capable hiker in these conditions. Oh man.
We were really feeling the heat coming down off that hike, and that afternoon it actually reached about 88 degrees, so we spent the day back in Moab, but this time at the city park. It wasn’t that nice, but it was something to do. We had my birthday dinner at Moab Brewery (which was nice but I like Boise Breweries better!), and then drove back into the park at dusk for one more hike which would cover several arches: Landscape Arch, Partition Arch, Tunnel Arch, and Pinetree Arch. It was a good “bang for your buck” type of hike. When we parked, the previously full parking lot was nearly deserted, so we had the trail very quiet and almost all to ourselves. It was a magical evening! Perfect weather, perfect lighting, the kids were having fun, and to top it all off, we spotted a family of six white tailed deer grazing underneath Tunnel Arch, a jack rabbit, another snake, and a whole bunch of lizards. As I walked back from the arches we had just seen, I was holding Rylan’s hand, and it was one of those completely contented moments where you want to take a mental picture and carry it with you forever. And I think I will. That was a good birthday gift that this trip gave me.
It was this same evening that Quinn really perfected her picture pose. You guys. We do not tell her to do this stuff. In fact, sometimes it would be better if she could just be a tad more normal, but oh my gosh it’s funny. Literally, as soon as I would lift the camera to catch a candid shot on this hike (and almost all picture moments afterwards), she would immediately stop whatever she was doing, tell me, “wait, wait” and then strike this pose, or something similar:
I told Kevin that’s the cover of Shape Magazine or something! Haha! I’m sure she must have seen a pose like this somewhere and is trying it on for size, but I have no idea where in world….oh well. She’s three so it’s still cute. Kevin said I should try to pose like that but I graciously declined.
Kevin had brought with him a birthday present for me, which I am really excited about. It’s called a Life Straw, which is basically a water filtering straw! I can fill up a water bottle and just immediately use the Life Straw and filter out any impurities. I’m so excited to use it on my big hiking trip this summer, plus all the training I’ll be doing!
Saturday we dropped by Arches to get Rylan his Junior Ranger badge. This last part where he has to talk to a real Park Ranger and answer some questions has always been the hardest part for him. I refuse to do it for him, and at certain parks he’s had to flat out leave and come back later to try again! But this time he did super good, and talked to the ranger about all the rocks he had seen and animals he had counted. He also learned how to find the Big Dipper and O’Ryan’s Belt as constellations in the night sky as one of his work pages, and he was very proud of himself for knowing that stuff. So, of course, did you have any doubts? He became a Junior Ranger for Arches National Park!
Our next stop was not in Arches, but rather shifting gears and seeing a place called Poison Spider Dinosaur Tracks. We did a quick steep hike and got to a really neat slab of Cretaceous period therapod tracks (that would be a three-toed meat eater for any non-dinosaur nerds out there). Amazing to see and stand next to and touch the footprints of a dinosaur! It really is pretty cool, and not just for 5 year olds, okay?!
We continued on down the road to Dead Horse Point State Park, where we were going to have lunch and stop at the scenic viewpoint. Kevin was onboard with that plan until we learned that it cost $15 to get into the state park. Well! That just was an unreasonable amount to pay to just eat lunch and see some viewpoint! We will turn around! What a waste of money! etc. etc. You see where his attitude was. I didn’t let up, I had heard that this place was worth seeing, and let’s just do it. If it’s completely lame than I take full responsibility. So all that to say, we went in under Kevin’s protest. We had lunch, we saw the visitor’s center, we went to the bathroom, and did all the things. Then we drove further in to the grandiose view point I had heard about. Kevin took one look on that view and his jaw dropped. He said, “Hands down, this is the best view I have ever seen in my life. That was the best $15 we have ever spent.” And you know, he was right. Again, pictures just don’t capture the full magnitude and emotion of being there, but here’s just a taste.
After staying at Dead Horse for over two hours, we continued on to Canyonlands National Park, the least visited national park in all of Utah! And…well, there sure are a lot of canyons in those lands over there! It was basically a lot of driving and viewpoints of…more canyons. It was incredible! But if we’re in the business of comparing national parks to each other, which Kevin and I decided we should stop doing, Canyonlands really does not hold a candle to Arches. But I am glad we went. As well as several overlooks, we stopped at Mesa Arch which I had heard great things about but turns out was much smaller in real life than I thought it was going to be! And as we were driving out, Rylan was just dying to go on a hike and at this point can read all the signs as we drive for hiking pullouts. So he picked one called Whale Rock. I was tired and not in the mood to go on a hike, but I went anyway, while Kevin and Quinn napped in the car. It surprised me by being totally awesome! Whale Rock turned out to be simply a huge slick rock mountain, but Rylan had no trouble! On top of that, there wasn’t really even a trail, but rather way finding through following rock cairns (towers, or stacks) placed along the slick rock at random intervals. Of course Rylan really loved that aspect, and made it seem like more of an adventure.
On Sunday, we had to go home. We took our time in the morning stopping at two other dinosaur track sites. It just really is incredible to see these things. Mill Canyon had six sets of different dinosaurs walking through, which was amazing! Copper Ridge had either an Apatosaurus or Diplodocus AND an Allosaurus, which is one of Rylan’s favorite meat eaters, besides the Deinonychus and Dilophosaurus. Don’t ask me how I know these things, I absorb them through osmosis. The drive was very long. And kids, no joke, have to stop every hour to go potty and yes, it is incredibly frustrating. We got back home at about 8:30 pm, all took baths and showers and hopped right into bed.
Overall I see it as such a blessing to be able to go on a trip like this, especially for my birthday, doing things that I love (spontaneity, road trips, hiking, adventure, etc.) with the people I love, and coming back all the richer for it. Watching Rylan and Quinn grow and stretch themselves in ways they just can’t at home is such a cool gift even by itself, that I just sit back and soak it all in. It is incredible to know that life is bigger than just our own backyard, and all we have to do is step out into it.
Check out all the pictures here